Is there any *good* HTML-mode for emacs?

Have you checked out Emacs Wiki html page? nxhtml in particular looks useful.

I've been dissatisified with the available modes, but I have found happiness recently using plain old html-mode augmented with yasnippet and tidy.el. As the other answers have mentioned nxhtml mode is useful if you are writing xhtml.

If you are wanting to get highlighted php and javascript, you might want to look at mmm-mode, which will allow you to run multiple major modes at once. I've never used it, so I don't know who it handles conflicting key bindings, etc... so you'll have to feel your way around there.

Give multi-web mode a try, it's a minor mode designed with web editing in mind, it selects the appropriate major when the point moves around.

I too use nXhtml mode for mixed mode editing having failed to get Multiple Modes working correctly. It has been a bit of a rocky ride but recent builds have proved to be useful. I'm running with Emacs 23 FWIW.